grievous oversight

Okay, I tell you that I live in Honolulu and that I'm a novelist who writes psychedelic comic surf fiction.
(You can check my veracity, since some stories appeared in Surfer magazine a few winters ago.)
I just noticed that I have yet to post any photos of anyone surfing.
Here's our local kid Jamie O'Brien winning this year's Pipe Masters in grand style:

Photo courtesy of The Honolulu Advertiser.